November 21st, 2009
Every horse and every hoof is unique. Deciding what is best for you horse and your horses feet, is an important part of owning a horse. Finding a good farrier that is knowledgeable, on time and willing to work with you is important.
I will give you some ideas and questions you should ask yourself and your farrier to help you do the best thing for your horse!
November 20th, 2009
So you’ve got a love of the outdoors, you’ve taken some riding lessons and now you want to buy a horse. Just like any other animal you’re bringing into your life, this is a serious undertaking. However, because horses are not a household pet, there are unique considerations when buying one.
Here are some tips to help you find a horse that is right for you.
Education
Educate yourself on all things related to horses. Read as much as you can but also be around them as much as possible. Volunteer at a stable and see what taking care of a horse is really like. Take extensive riding lessons. Learn how to recognize a horse’s disposition and temperament. Also, talk to people in the horse community by going to horse shows. Talk to trainers and vets to truly understand the magnitude of what you are about to undertake. Can you afford to make the time and money commitment of being a horse owner?
Know Yourself
You have educated yourself on the responsibilities of being a horse owner and you have decided to go ahead with this venture. The next step is to make a list of what you are looking for in a horse.
What type of riding do you enjoy? Would you prefer a calm horse or a horse with a lot of spirit? Decide on a breed, age, size and gender that is the right combination for you. Your exposure from riding lessons and being around stables will come in handy when making this decision. However, for a first time horse buyer, it is probably best to stick with geldings and mares.
Expenses
At the beginning, there will be a lot of upfront expenses ‘ the actual cost of the horse along with tack and supplies. Next, you will need to calculate the monthly expenses. Monthly expenses could be from boarding cost or maybe you’re keeping the horse on your own property. If you plan on keeping the horse on your own property, estimate the cost for feed, hay, bedding and general upkeep. Also, don’t forget the housing repairs for fences and stable. And then there are other reoccurring bills such as vet bills, farrier bills, and other maintenance costs. You should have a good idea in your mind after talking to people in the horse community.
Stick With the Plan
You’ve done your homework by educating yourself. You’ve created a checklist of what you’re looking for in a horse. You’ve also calculated that you can afford to keep a horse. The horse you’re looking for might not come instantly but don’t let emotions cloud your judgment. The important thing in purchasing a horse is just to stick with the plan!
November 19th, 2009
When first learning to saddle a horse, you should know that there is no difference between using a western saddle or an English saddle. They require the same knowledge and steps.
Before Saddling Your Horse
Before you place a saddle on your horse, you should always groom the horse. Take the time to check and make sure there are no sores in the area the saddle will be placed. Then brush your horse to make sure that anything like grit or dirt is removed so you can prevent irritation or chaffing. When you are finished brushing, the hair on the horse’s back or girth should lie flat.
Saddling Your Horse
When you begin to saddle a horse, it is traditionally done from the left side. Although, if it is necessary, you can also do it from the right side of the horse. Now you are ready to place the blanket on the horse. If you are using a western saddle, first fold the blanket in half. Then place the blanket over the horse with the fold towards the horse’s head. Some blankets may have rings on them so you can attach it to the saddle and help keep it from moving around. If that is the case, make sure they are up and not against the horse.
Now check to make sure that the blanket is folded evenly. A tip to help make sure that the hair on the horse’s back stays flat is when you are placing the blanket over the horse start at the withers and slide it down the back into place.
Now you are ready to put the actual saddle on the horse. Before you place it on the horse, make sure you have properly hooked the stirrups so they will not smack the horse as you set the saddle down. Then lift the saddle high enough that you can set it down with out moving the blanket. Set it down easy; if you just drop it on the horse you may spook it. When you place it, try to place it a little higher up the back and let it “settle” in where it belongs.
Walk around to the other side and unattached the stirrup. Check to make sure that the blanket stayed in place, smooth out any wrinkles and make sure the hair remained flat. Double-checking is very important when you saddle a horse.
Now reach under the horse and get the girth or cinch. Bring it up and either tie the cinch or buckle the girth. When you do this, do it in increments. Start loosely and then slowly tighten. This gives the horse a chance to relax. Tighter is not always better. When you have the correct tightness, you should be able to place your fingers in between the girth and the horse. If you had rings on your blanket now is the time to hook them to the saddle.
Final Tip
Hopefully, these tips on how to saddle a horse have been helpful. Just remember to always check the girth and make sure it is tight every time you mount the horse.
November 11th, 2009
Here’s another question from email after my post about a horse’s sense of trust (No click). And it brings out a point about a horse’s senses that you might not have realized. I certainly didn’t until I started studying horse health. But if you understand it, you’ll know why a horse might be reluctant to cross strange streams.
“Dear Sierra,
A few days a go you wrote about taking a horse onto a trail he’s never been on, especially water. I haven’t owned my horse for very long, but I’ve found that my horse is very hesitant to cross a stream he’s never seen. Why is it that he can cross strange land okay, but not water?” -KR, King of Prussia, PA
Great question. The answer is in your horse’s eyes. Here’s what I mean…
Because your horse’s eyes are located on the sides of his head, they have very good peripheral vision. But as good as his vision is, he does have some blind spots. When your horse stands straight with his head up, he cannot see…
* Directly behind him
* Directly in front of his forehead (within a few feet)
* On his back just behind his withers
* Directly under his head
It’s the last one – directly under his head, that is causing your horse to be uneasy while crossing a stream.
You see, when a horse encounters trouble, his first reaction is to flee. So his life depends on his legs. He know this very well, so he’s very protective of his legs. That’s why he’s not so excited about crossing a stream he’s never seen before. He can see it coming from a distance. But once he’s right up on it, it disappears from his vision.
Your horse is reluctant to walk across something strange if he can’t examine first. He doesn’t want to jeopardize his legs if he’s not sure what he’s stepping in. So your goal is to get your horse to trust you, his leader, never to let any harm come to him. And that includes stepping into uncertainty.
Here’s a horse training exercise you can try with your horse. Get a shiny piece of gray plastic, like, say, one of those jumbo-sized garbage bags. Place it on the ground, then slowly lead your horse over it.
He’ll experience a tense moment when the bag disappears from his sight. But once he steps on it a few through it a few times, and realizes he still has all his appendages, his trust in you will increase. And that’s what you want.
So when you see a horse crossing a stream you know he’s never seen before, you can be sure he has a great sense of trust in his leader. Your goal is to get your horse to trust you as that leader. And when he does, he’ll go anywhere with you.
Yours for Better Horse Health,
Sierra Lynch
November 11th, 2009
When you own a horse it is very essential that you have enough knowledge on how to give proper horse care–proper horse grooming, proper feeding, and proper horse training–so that you will become successful horse raiser. You should remember some fundamentals of horse raising.
There are almost as many opinions on the proper horse care as there are different kinds of horses. Much of the “correct” kind of feeding will depend on what kind of work, if any, your horse does on a usual basis. Here is a general overview on how to feed your horses properly.
The most essential thing is to see to it that your horse has clean, fresh water readily available at all times. Horses surprisingly need more water in the cold months of winter than in the warmer months of the year. There are lots of ways to make sure that your horse gets a fresh supply of water at all times of the year. One of the easiest method to do this is to make use of poly stock tanks. You can buy these at most farm stores for a reasonable price.
You have to see to it that you buy a tank and hoses that are rated for feeding. Some hoses contain ingredients that make them not suitable for carrying water for animal or human consumption. Check the label carefully so that you can make it sure you are buying the right ones. Water hoses come in many different sizes and lengths and some even come in collapsible form, which works well for those colder climates where water will freeze inside the hose in overnight temperatures.
Here are some other simple guidelines on feeding horses. First, ensure that you have a trace mineral block and an iodized salt block for your horse. These give the important vitamins and minerals your horse needs on a regular basis. Your horse will lick or chew the block, as they need these vitamins and minerals. These blocks can be bought at most feed stores and most farm-related stores as well.
Feeding your horse may vary from the other depending on your horse’s individual needs, so make sure to contact your vet if you have any questions. Every horse is different and the correct feeding schedule will depend on activity level, age, geographic location and various other catalysts.
One feeding problem that is becoming more and more common is over-feeding an idle horse. This usually happens when a horse eats more than he can burn off during exercise will do more harm to him than good. How can you tell if your horse has gained weight that is too much? Here is a good rule of thumb: you should ideally be able to run your fingers along the horse’s rib cage with light pressure and be able to feel the horse’s ribs. If you find that you have to lean into the horse and press down your fingers to make heavy pressure, there is a good chance that your horse may be overweight. Overweight horses usually suffer from extra stress on their hearts with the extra fat, which makes it difficult for the heart to pump blood to the rest of the horse’s body. Please see to it that you consult your vet if you think your horse may be overweight.
November 5th, 2009
Horses are amazingly beautiful and sensitive creatures. Horses require not only understanding and patience to have a horse as a pet, it also requires a whole lot of care.
Herd Mentality:
Observe horses in the herd system, each horse’s welfare in the wild depends upon an instinctive submission to the discipline of the herd. The instinct is for immediate action. To the horse, action is survival. When horses live in an herd environment, they often take turns sleeping and standing guard for any predators. When the leader of the herd signals danger they take flight.
Learning respect and ascending to authority starts on the first day of life for the foals, there is a distinct pecking order in herds of horses.
It is important to keep a quiet profile around horses. Horses naturally do not like unnecessary noise because in the wild their survival depends on detection of predators with their hearing. Extraneous noise interferes with this predator detection. This predator detection is tightly coupled with a horse’s flight reflex. Due to these survival genetics, horses have a physiological wiring in their brains that predisposes them to prefer quietness and to become bothered by unnecessary noise. Many horses can get startled easily from abrupt noises and this could result in injury to the horse, the rider, or people around the horse. Talk to your horse in a quiet, reassuring voice.
Relationship With Horses:
A horse will love you if, first and foremost, you treat it fairly, and secondly, if you allow yourself to develop a relationship with it in the same way you would a human partner. There are too many who will look after the horse’s material needs but put nothing back into the partnership itself. The horse born in captivity will identify with an alternative provider and companion, resulting in a healthy relationship from the beginning. A healthy relationship with your horse requires: trust, coupled with respect, fondness with compliance, and a desire to please.
Check Your Horse:
Examine your horse every day and especially prior to riding the horse. Carefully examine the horse’s legs and back for any unusual heat or lumps. Make sure that the horse’s eyes are alert and not glazy. Listen for any excessive noise or gurgling sounds coming from your horse’s stomach. Catching problems before they become serious is critical to keeping a show horse sound and alive.
Exercise caution and discretion when around stallions and mares when they are in heat. They are dealing with hormones on an order of magnitude that you probably can not comprehend. Stallions typically bite and some may be easily triggered into violent behavior.
Grooming Horses:
Keep your horse clean. Keep your horse’s entire coat free from dirt, mud, sand, and sweat. Brush your horse every day. Pick out your horse’s feet every day. Wash out any sweat residue from the saddle pad or girth every day. Wash out any dirt or sand residue, as from the riding arena, on your horses legs every day. A number of different problems can result if a horse’s coat is not kept clean.
Barn Care:
Keep your horse’s stall clean. Make sure that your horse’s stall is cleaned every day. Be sure that any wetness is removed with the manure. Replace the removed bedding with fresh, clean, dry bedding. Water should be dumped from buckets every day without exception. Unhealthy dirt and bacteria can build up in a bucket if it is not cleaned on a daily basis. Clean water is essential to maintaining a healthy horse. Make sure your horse always has clean, fresh water available.
Training A Horse:
The intelligence of the horse increases rapidly with education. An intelligent trainer can make an intelligent horse. A kind but firm trainer will result in a disciplined but pleasing horse.
Horse Feed:
Feed your horse(s) at the same times every day. A horse may get upset and colic or injure themselves by kicking the stall or pawing, if not fed when feeding is expected. You should not make radical changes in a horse’s feed program. If you must make a change in the feed program, make the change gradually. Drastic changes in a horse’s feed program can cause the horse to colic and in some cases, may die. Your horse’s stomach is a highly sensitive bio-reactor that maintains a delicate balance of the organisms that digest food in your horse’s digestive track.
Visitors should not feed a horse that you do not own without the owner’s permission; no carrots, no apples, no treats, nothing. The horse could potentially, get sick if they have an allergy or sickness.
Pay attention to everything that goes into your horse; that means all feed, all hay, all water, all treats, all supplements, all pills, and all shots. This knowledge could save your horse’s life in an emergency situation. Post this information on your horse’s stall door so that it is available to a vet if you are not around in an emergency. Make sure that your horse gets high-quality feed and hay. Your horse’s health and soundness depends on the nutrition that you provide for them. Take good care of your horse. A rider without a horse is no rider at all.
Vet Care:
Make sure that you have a good equine veterinarian. A good vet will save you money in the long run and may save your horse’s life some day. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Make sure your horse has all the vaccinations that are normal for your geographical location. All horses should be on a good worming program to control intestinal parasites. A horse should be wormed by a vet at least twice a year.
Horse Flies:
In the summer spray your horse trailer down with fly spray about 10 minutes before you load the horses. The flies should leave, and your horses will be without those pesky flies!
Cooling Horses:
Never spray a hot, sweaty horse with cold water immediately after working the horse. This can cause muscle spasms and binding, or shock that can lead to death. Wait until the horse is breathing regularly, and use warm water if it is available. If a horse has heat shock, consult your vet and the vet may instruct you to cold hose the horse, even if still hot and sweaty. Never put a horse in a stall or confined area while sweaty or while they are still breathing heavily. This can result in shock and/or colic that can lead to death. Walk the horse until the horse is cooled out and the breathing is normal.
Shoeing:
Horses’ hooves generally grow approximately 1 cm in a month, and take nearly a year to grow from the coronet band to the ground. Horse’s hooves need to be trimmed regularly (about every 6-8 weeks). Shoeing a horse does not hurt them. If you were to grow out your finger nail, you could put an earring/pin through it without causing discomfort; however, if you pushed the pin through the part of your nail that is attached to the soft tissue of your finger, it would hurt. When horse shoes are nailed in, they are nailed at an angle so which the horse doesn’t feel it.
Make sure that you have a good farrier, especially if you show your horse over jumps. The concussion from landing from jumps amplifies any problems in a horse’s shoeing. If a horse gets sore feet or legs from bad angles or bad shoeing, the horse can not just take his shoes off, sit back on a couch, and rub their feet, or find another pair of shoes like you can. Bad shoeing can result in your horse becoming lame due to a number of problems including: bowed tendons, popped splints, or shoulder/back soreness or spasms. Bad shoeing can ruin a good horse, so don’t be penny-wise and pound-foolish where shoeing is concerned. A laid-up horse is far more expensive to maintain than a good farrier. And remember not all horses need to have shoes, only if they are competing, walking on hard/rocky surfaces, or have hoof problems.
Sleeping:
Horses do lay down to sleep, but only if they feel completely comfortable in their environment. It is not enough to provide a dry stable, food and water. Horses will often sleep standing up by locking their knees. Horses are one of the few animals that can put one half of their body asleep while the other half is wide awake. Emotionally and mentally, all horses need to feel they have and be comfortable in their own space!
To fully enjoy a horse’s finer qualities you must treat them with both kindness and quality care. In the end, a happy horse will mean a nicer ride and a happier rider.