Posts Tagged ‘Horses For Sale’

A Horse Course, of Course, for Rescue Workers

December 10th, 2009

While trying to contain a tragic accident site on Long Island last month where a horse trailers became disconnected from its truck, rescue workers felt woefully inadequate trying to handle the injured and dying horses. Clearly, they had no experience with the large animals, and some were moved to tears when explaining how helpless they felt.

To remedy such situations and to prepare rescue workers for handling horses in emergency situations, the Connecticut Horse Council initiated the Horse911 project—a series of workshops geared toward teaching Connecticut’s firefighters about basic horse-handling techniques while promoting fire prevention and preparedness among barn owners.

According to a recent article in Connecticut’s Journal Enquirer, more than 70 firefighters from six Connecticut firehouses attended a recent three-hour workshop on saving horses from barn fires. With the help of accomplished horsepeople, firefighters learned how to approach, halter and lead nervous horses amid the noise and bright lights emanating from the fire trucks.

Facilitators described horse behavior and anatomy so that firefighters would have an understanding about how a horse is affected by smoke inhalation or in its reluctance to flee a burning barn. The workshop facilitators hope that the training will help firefighters feel comfortable handling horses in situations other than barn fires such as loose horses or in the event of a trailer accident.

The Horse911 project is conducted in partnership with the Connecticut Horse Council, the Career Fire Chief’s Association, the Connecticut State Fire Academy and the Connecticut Animal Response Team. In addition to providing firefighter training, the Connecticut Horse Council also offers seminars in fire prevention and emergency response for horse and barn owners. At the request of a barn owner, the council can also arrange for an area fire chief’s inspection of a local barn to further fire prevention safety procedures and practices.

The Connecticut Horse Council began in 1969 to defeat proposed legislation that would have banned the use of bits and spurs. Since then, the group has been involved in all areas relevant to horse industries in Connecticut. The council’s motto is “Horsemen United in Leadership, Service and Education.”

Considering the spate of trailer and loose horse accidents across the nation, Connecticut has the right idea in getting its area firefighters more horse savvy. One would hope that more horse associations across the nation find example in Connecticut’s Horse Council’s initiatives.

So You Want to Buy a Horse…

December 7th, 2009

The time has come and you are finally ready to go out and buy a horse of your own. But how do you know what to look for? It might seem simple at first to state what the perfect horse would be, but is it a realistic possibility?
When looking for your first horse, you need to be brutally honest about what you need. This may not be easy, so be sure to set aside any preconceptions you have about finding your equine soul-mate and start from the beginning.
First of all, consider your riding ability. Have you primarily ridden in lessons, or at a trail barn? If this is the case, you will need to find a well-trained horse that will not need a lot of extra training to get where you need it to be. If you are more experienced, keep in mind that it is easy to become overfaced, so always look for a horse that you are comfortable with right now, not one that will be right for you some day in the future. You can always upgrade if you need to.
What does your ideal horse look like? While this may be one of the least important aspects of buying your horse, it can be a great way to start narrowing down the field. Pick a size of horse that suits your build. If you are barely over 5′ tall, you don’t need a 17hh horse. Likewise, if you are over 6′ tall, a 15hh horse would look a bit silly. A stocky horse is better suited for a larger boned individual, while someone fine, would look better on a fine-boned horse.
The right breed, or range of breeds, is another important consideration. Some disciplines are very specific to certain breeds or horses. Others are more flexible. Consider what you plan to do with your horse, and choose a range of breeds that will work for your needs. Sometimes the best horse may not be your favorite breed, but once again, this will give you somewhere to start.
Once you have an idea of what you want, you need to decide what aspects are most important to you. All too often buyers spend years searching for the right horse because they are too rigid in their criteria, often passing up horses who may be perfect for their needs because the horse is the wrong color, or is a few years too old, or isn’t quite as tall as they want.
Finally, when you have all your criteria in mind, consider price. While there are many deals to be found, often what you get is what you pay for. Pick an upper limit, and look around to see what you can find that suits your needs. If nothing seems to be suited, you may have set your upper limit too low, and should save up for a while before continuing your search.
Take your time to find the right horse, but when you find something suitable, be aware that horse sales are first-come, first-served. Don’t be afraid to place a deposit if the horse seems to be just what you are looking for. Sometimes it is better to risk losing a few dollars, than to lose the horse than was just right for your needs.

Dressage Horses – Dressage Horses for Sale

December 7th, 2009

Dressage is a French word that means training. Dressage has ancient roots. It was recognised as an equestrian discipline during the period of the Renaissance.

To view all Dressage horses for sale click here.

There are two types of dressage; classical dressage and competitive dressage.

Competitive Dressage

Competitive dressage is an immensely popular equestrian pursuit. It is a worldwide sport that ranges from novice standards to the Olympics.  When competing in a dressage competition, horse and rider execute a series of movements within a dressage arena this is a “test”. The performance is judged and marks are given for each movement accomplished and for the horse’s way of going. A score is given to determine the rider’s position in the competition.

Many different breeds and types of horses and ponies compete in competitive dressage.

By far the most popular breed is the continental Warmblood horse. Warmblood horses excel at competitive dressage. Warmblood horses possess good looks, elegance and are extremely athletic, intelligent horses, they have a cooperative willing nature and they also boast superior movement. Warmblood horses are bred for performance. Warmblood registries follow meticulous breeding programs to develop the ultimate dressage horse.

Classical Dressage

Classical dressage was developed from cavalry movements when training their horses for combat. Horses were taught movements that were above the ground these are called “airs” or “schools”. They were to help their riders flee if trapped by the enemy and to aid their combat techniques.

Classical dressage or “High school” is an equestrian art form, where horse and rider work in harmony.

Baroque horses are used for classical dressage. Their ancient roots can be traced back to the Iberian Peninsula; modern day Spain, Portugal, Andorra and Gibraltar. The Baroque horse group consists of the Andalusian, Lusitano and the famed Lippizan.

The group named “Baroque” is taken from the extravagant baroque style of art and architecture. The baroque group of horses have an amazing floaty elevated action; they are intelligent horses with majestic looks and an exceptionally trainable nature.

To view all Dressage horses for sale click here

North Central Texas College – Equine College In The Heart Of The Horse Industry

November 30th, 2009

The equine industry is a very diverse industry that contributes to a wide variety of activities in every portion of the country. North Central Texas College is located directly in the heart of the horse industry in north Texas. North Central Texas College is located in Gainesville, Texas and is a two year public college. North Central Texas College offers students the opportunity to earn an associate’s degree in one of many different and exciting fields of study. The Equine Science program at North Central Texas College offers a great deal of hands-on experience in training, breeding and management, as well as classroom instruction on the science and business aspects of the horse industry. North Central Texas College has three different equine degree options that a student can choose from depending on their specific needs and desires. The degree options for students are as follows:
· Associate in Applied Science Degree in Equine Science
· Equine Breeding Farm Management Certificate
· Equine Management and Training Certificate
The overall goal of the Equine Science program is to produce graduates that have been given a quality education and are well rounded and ready to enter the work force or transfer to a four year institution. These programs are designed for individuals who are interested in becoming an equine professional in one of the many different equine fields that are available in today’s society. Graduates of the program will have the skills and knowledge that are necessary to survive in the real world. Graduates of North Central Texas College have what it takes to be successful and to be a true asset to the equine industry.
Students wishing to earn an Associate in Applied Science Degree in Equine Science are required to complete a total of 66 hours of classes. Students are required to take several basic core required classes along with the major program classes. Some of the required major courses are:
· Horsemanship I – This is an introductory course that goes into the basics of horsemanship and will teach skills like handling, saddling, safety, proper riding techniques, and basic health care. There will be a great amount of emphasis placesd on using aid cues and proper leg, seat, and hand position.
· Equine Science I & II – These courses are designed to give students an introduction to the equine industry. Some of the topics that will be covered include history, breeds, selection, identification, anatomy, and basic management techniques.
· Horse Evaluation I – This course in designed to be an introduction into the evaluation and selection of horses based on breed and the different performance criteria that are used today. A great amount of emphasis will be placed on the breed standards and rules used to judge performance horses.
· Enterprise Management – This is a business survey course that is designed to evaluate the equine industry as a whole.
· Behavior and Training I – This course will provide students with instruction in basic equine behavior and training methods. Some of the topics that will be covered in this course include safety, behavior, health care, management, and training methods. Students will be required to use a systematic approach to train a young horse while at the same time learning the correct safety and training techniques that are used in the equine industry.
· Introduction to Ag Economics
· Computers in Agriculture
· Equine Business Management
· Animal Health
· Equine Reproduction
· Internship
All students who choose to apply for any of the equine programs should have a basic knowledge and understanding of equine care and management because none of these programs offer any entry level riding classes.
For more great equine programs make sure to visit our resource links below and hope you will email all your friends about our equine network. We would love to have as a member at our horsechitchat forum.

The Heavy Horse Rider

November 20th, 2009

With a growing number of people suffering from obesity, it is not surprising that many riders are questioning their horse’s comfort at carrying their weight. The pressure to slim down is bad enough without worrying about your horse, but when you have an animal’s wellbeing to consider it can be difficult to know what to do. So how do you know if you are too heavy for your horse?
If you were to look at things purely from a pound for pound position, a horse can comfortably carry about 25% of their weight. That means that a 1000lb horse can manage 250lb of weight. Keep in mind that this must be calculated from the horse’s fit weight; if he is a hundred pounds overweight, it does not make him capable of carrying more weight. In fact, he should carry less weight since he is already carrying more than he should.
But life isn’t simple, and the pound for pound scale isn’t an accurate way of calculating the capability of a horse. There are many other factors to consider. For example, 250lb of floppy, bouncy rider are far harder to carry than 250lb of fit, balanced rider. While 250lb may seem like a lot of weight, it is not uncommon for a fit, tall man to weigh close to that. Some heavyset women can be very fit, and yet still weight well over 200lb. When calculating the weight your horse can manage, it is as important to consider your riding skill as to consider your weight.
Another factor is the conformation of your horse. While it may seem that a bigger horse would be able to carry more weight, this is not always the case. Sometimes a big horse is built in such a way that he has a weak back and cannot carry as much weight.
Consider a 15hh quarter horse with a short back and compact size and a long, lanky 16hh Thoroughbred. Purely looking at weight and height, it would seem logical that the 16hh Thoroughbred would be able to carry more weight. But, this is not the case. With a long back and a finer build, the Thoroughbred is not built to carry weight. Bred for racing for many years, Thoroughbreds are built for speed and for carrying a lightweight rider. The Quarter Horse may be smaller, but the shorter back and more compact muscling are far more suited to carrying weight. Quarter horses have been bred for sports where they are expected to carry weight, and be athletic at the same time.
If you are not sure if you are the right weight for you horse, you need to consider your horse’s condition carefully. If he is fit, has a reasonably short back, and is showing no signs of soreness, he’s probably doing just fine with your weight. While losing a few pounds would be good for both him and you, he is managing. On the other hand, if you horse is unfit, or has a long back, or is showing signs of soreness either in his back or in his limbs, you need to rethink your choice of mount.
This does not necessarily mean that you need a new horse. You can spend some time working on your weight, which always helps. But there are other things you can do. If your horse is not fit, see if you can find ways to get him fit. This could be longing him, or asking another rider to work with him a bit, if you do not have the time. Make sure that you saddle fits your horse well, and take some lessons to tune up your riding. Avoid doing a sitting trot, and try riding in a half seat when cantering. Keep high-impact riding to a minimum until you get your weight down.
Of course, if you horse is showing signs of soreness and you are not in a position to loose much weight, you may need to consider finding a horse better suited to your build. Your horse might be happier with a smaller rider, and you might feel better with a horse that fits you.

Being Over-horsed

November 19th, 2009

When trying to find the right horse, it is important to be careful to avoid getting an animal that does not suit you. When you have a horse that is too strong, too green or even too well trained you are over-horsed. This means that you have a horse that is beyond your skill level.
It is not uncommon for riders to become over-horsed. There are many reasons for this. Sometimes a rider overestimates her skills and buys a horse that she cannot manage. Other times a parent or a coach is pushing too hard and puts a rider onto a horse she is not ready for yet. Whatever the reason, it is important to find a horse that fits the rider’s skill level as soon as possible, before the rider looses confidence, and possibly looses interest in riding at all.
When looking for a horse, be sure to carefully evaluate your skill level. There is nothing wrong with getting a horse that will challenge you, but you need to be careful not to go too far.
A common mistake is to choose a horse that is too big or too strong for the rider. With more and more riders feeling that they need a 16.2hh + horse, it is not unusual for a short rider to end up on a huge horse. Because small riders do not have the length of leg, or the weight to manage the large horse, many become intimidated.
Another mistake is to buy a fancy show prospect when you really only need a mid-level horse. Horses who are bred to compete in the upper levels generally have a more difficult temperament that horses who were bred for the lower levels. This is because they are athletes. They are built, mentally and physically, to be competitive. When not adequately challenged they will turn to other things to keep their attention. This can quickly intimidate the rider, who then backs off even more, making the issues even worse.
Some riders will try to save money by buying a green horse, when they don’t have the experience to train him. These riders do their best to train their horse, but run into troubles when the horse goes beyond their experience and starts misbehaving. While some riders will turn to trainers to help, this is not always financially possible. The horse remains uncooperative, and becomes unpleasant to ride. Sometimes these perfectly nice horses, who would have been fine with proper training, wind up getting dumped due to training issues.
Even worse is when riders choose to buy a weanling or a yearling because they are cheap. The rider does not know what to do with the baby and does not put in the handling time the baby needs to know his place. Other times the rider spends a lot of time with the baby, but does not set up boundaries, creating dangerous situations. Many riders grow impatient with waiting for the baby to grow up and start them under saddle too soon, winding up with flighty, underdeveloped horses who are not ready mentally or physically for the work they are asked to do.
If you are going to buy a horse, be sure to buy something that fits your current skill level. Choose something that will challenge you, but be prepared to get help as soon as problems arise. Being over-horsed is terribly unpleasant and can ruin your long-term riding career.

Preparing to Send a Horse to a Trainer

November 19th, 2009

Sending a horse away for training can be pretty stressful, especially if you don’t know what to send with him. Fortunately, it doesn’t need to be all that bad. With some planning ahead, and smart packing, your horse will soon be off to school, and you can relax and know that he’s all packed.
Feed
If your horse is on a special feed, you may want to keep him on it while away. Ask the trainer what they usually feed, and ask if you can send your own. Some trainers will give a discount on their board if you supply your own feed, so be sure to ask up front.
Pack your feed in a large plastic garbage bin with a lid that seals. The ones with wheels work the best as they are easy to move around, even when full. You can use a permanent marker on the lid to write your horse’s name and how much feed he gets. Include a scoop so that the measurements will be accurate. Make sure your horse’s name is on the scoop too, so it won’t go missing.
Finally, if your horse requires any supplements or medications, you should include them with the feed. Once again, write the dosage and your horse’s name on the container.
Equipment
Usually a trainer will use her own saddles and bridles. If your horse needs custom tack, you will probably want to send it along with him. You can get your name installed on the cantle of your saddle at your local tack shop so that it can’t be mistaken for someone else’s saddle. If you have a special bit or bridle you can send it along too, but always ask the trainer before sending any tack. Bridles can be labeled with a name plate over the crown.
Your horse will of course need a halter. The halter should be correctly fitted to your horse and should have his name clearly marked on it. It should be in good repair. Some trainers will insist on a leather halter, but most will leave it to the owner’s preference. Find out if the barn leaves halters on for turn-out or in the stall. If they do, consider a break-away crown piece made from leather or a leather halter.
While a leadrope might be necessary at some trainers’ facilities, most barns have their own leads. Yours will likely grow legs and walk, so it is better to leave it at home. Fly masks are a good addition in the summer, but once again should be clearly labeled with permanent marker. If your horse requires boots or bandages for turn-out or when working, include them, but make sure your horse’s name is on them.
Should your horse require blanketing, send along any blankets he wears. Make sure that they are in good repair and are labeled. The fewer blankets you send, the better. Many barns do not like complicated blanketing plans, so do your best to keep things simple.
Paperwork
Something many people may not think of is including paperwork with their horse. Make up a binder to hold this information and clearly mark it with both your name and your horse’s name. One page should include information about your horse: his barn name, his registered name, his age, his breed, his height, his color, any markings, any special needs he might have. Another page should have all of your information: your name, address, phone number, an emergency contact. This page should also include the contact information for your vet and farrier. While the trainer may prefer to use her own vet and farrier, she may need to contact yours in an emergency. A third page should include all your horse’s usual care routines. Discuss his turn-out routine, current training schedule, feed schedule, and any quirks he may have.
Sometimes a horse that goes to a trainer is for sale. If so, include in the binder information about your horse that would be suitable to give to a potential buyer. Make at least 10 copies of the sales sheet so the trainer does not have to worry about giving out the only copy. Include a photocopy of your horse’s papers if he is registered.
Another thing to consider is that your trainer may ask for a commission if she finds a buyer for your horse. Make sure that you have a clear contract for the sale ready and have your trainer sign it. You will also want to include a copy of the boarding/training agreement in the binder and some kind of a liability waiver that keeps the trainer or her staff from suing you should they be injured by your horse.
Extras
Generally, the less you send with your horse the better. Anything you send has the potential to get lost, so try not to send anything too valuable. Consumables like fly spray will likely be used on the other horses, so don’t expect it to be kept exclusively for your horse’s use. Label everything clearly with permanent marker to reduce the chance of losing it and to minimize illegitimate use. Find out how much space will be available to your horse for his equipment, and send along a safe container in which to store his things. An alternate idea is to get a cloth bag which could be hung from his halter hook, or from the blanket rack.

Horse Riding – Free Jumping

November 18th, 2009

What it is and Why Teach your Horse
If you have a young horse that is destined to a life of jumping, or if you are looking to sell a young, unstarted horse, free jumping is an excellent way not only to evaluate your horse’s potential over fences, but also to give him a head start into the world of jumping.
Free jumping is the process in which you ask your horse to jump over one or more jumps when working free in the arena. While this can be done with nothing more than a single jump along the side of the arena, it is better to set up a jumping chute to prevent refusals.
A free jumping chute can be as long or short as you want, but ideally it should cover the length of the long side of your arena. The chute should be as wide as your jump poles, generally 10-12′ in width. The entrance of the chute should be open so that you can either lead your horse into the chute, or allow the horse to enter the chute freely. The exit can either be open, so that your horse may exit freely to continue jumping, or it can be closed (usually against the end wall of your arena) so that you can catch your horse and lead him back to the entrance of the chute.
Within the chute, a horse can be asked to jump a single jump, or a series of jumps designed to improve his form or test his jumping ability. Usually you would start out with something simple such as a pole on the ground, and then you would progress to more complicated combinations of jumps.
There are many benefits to free jumping your horse. For young horses, it is a great way to build their confidence over fences before you even try to jump under saddle. By gradually building the fences, you can teach him that he is capable of jumping bigger jumps and more difficult combinations that he would normally have tried. With the side of the chute preventing him from running out, he is forced to face the jumps ahead of him. The trainer insists that the horse goes forward, so that refusal is not an option; in this way he becomes an honest jumper even before you get on his back.
You can also use free jumping to evaluate your horse’s natural talent over fences. Because there is no rider to mess up his concentration or adjust his jump, your horse has the chance to jump naturally. While at first, he may not show a lot of ability, with practice many horses greatly improve their jump and become quite efficient in the chute.
Once you progress to jumping under saddle, your horse already had the confidence to jump small fences. In fact, since you will be starting with smaller fences under saddle than you used in the chute, you rarely have problems with refusals or other confidence issues that green horses generally show when jumping under saddle for the first time.
There are some drawbacks though. If you horse tends to race through the chute, or has a bad experience, it can cause difficulties once jumping under saddle. He may also fall into bad habits, jumping from bad distances or compensating in ways that are difficult to correct. If you see signs of this, it is important to either correct the problem in the chute, or stop free jumping until you can make corrections under saddle.
A horse can start free jumping as young as a year old. As long as the sessions are short and you don’t push the height of the fences, your young horse should be able to manage without difficulty. It is also important to avoid too many sessions through the season. A yearling should only free jump once or twice a month, if that. As you horse gets older, you can add a bit more height and train more often. By three, your horse should be able to manage heights up to 4′ and train 3-4 times a week.
As with any training, be careful to watch your horse’s progress. Avoid pushing him too far, too fast. Don’t repeat the same exercise too often, or you could burn him out. Free jumping can be an excellent training exercise, but should be treated with care.

Event Horses

November 17th, 2009

Eventing is an equestrian sport which comprises of three phases; dressage, cross country and show jumping.

The sport

There are generally two types of event competition the one day event (ODE) and the three day event (3DE).

When competing in the one day all three phases are completed in the same day, when competing in the three day event one phase is completed per day.

The dressage scores are imperative; they place the competitors in order, faults may be accumulated in the cross country and show jumping phases, but if no faults are given it is the dressage score that decides the overall winner.

Horses and ponies used for eventing

An inexperienced event rider would need a safe and knowledgeable horse or pony to ride to improve and teach the rider and boost the riders confidence. At the lower levels of eventing any type of horse or pony can be used, as long as it is peak physical condition. The more experienced rider will need a more athletic horse as the phases become more and more demanding. 

Correct confirmation of the event horse is vital; the event horse’s body is exposed to an array of stresses and strains from the diverse rudiments of eventing. A horse with correct confirmation will be stronger and will have a better chance of staying sound.

Popular horses that are used for eventing include;

Thoroughbred horses and Thoroughbred cross breeds.

Thoroughbred horses dominate the top levels of eventing.Thoroughbred horses possess remarkable stamina, speed, strength and jumping form. A popular cross breed is the Thoroughbred cross Irish draught, the Irish sport horse.

Warmblood horses

Warmblood horses are also very popular. Trakehners are an especially sought after breed for this discipline.The Trakehner is a lighter weight warmblood horse that possess speed, stamina and jumping ability. Warmblood horses excel at dressage and showjumping. These type of Horses for Sale can be found on the Horsewizard website.

A horse that is to be used for eventing must be an extremely versatile and thoroughly trained as all three phases of eventing are challenging in different ways, the event horse must be composed and obedient in the dressage phase, courageous and show great stamina in the cross country phase, to show accuracy and respect for the jumps in the show jumping phase.

To view all Eventer horses for sale click here.

Choosing From Various Horse Breeds

November 15th, 2009

If horses are your passion, it is relatively easy for you to identify various breeds of horses. What is more, you will not find it hard to train or take care of them. There are more than one hundred varieties of this animal. All of them have different traits which require specific care and attention in order for you to get close to them. If you do not know anything about horses, training or rearing them will be really difficult. This is the reason why you need to study or know more about them before you think of buying one. If ever you decide right away and you are not prepared, you will end up with a hind-leg kick from your horse.

Comprehending horses means that you have to delve into the relationship that you have with your horse. Compared to other farm animals, the former has always been very special to the humans. Even in the past, the horses are relied upon for different things. They are depended upon for transportation, for milk, for entertainment, for companionship, and sadly for some, food. If several years ago horses are used mostly to carry or lug heavy loads, this animal is now kept for leisure purposes or sports. The most common places that you will get to see horses are farms, ranches, and racing stables. When it comes to a specific breed, you have to buy a horse which you know fits your requirements accordingly. If you want to acquire the right variety for your children, you should choose a horse which is gentle and sweet. On the other hand, the best breed for horse racing is one which is fast and swift.

Horses for sale are common nowadays, what with the huge number of individuals wanting to buy their own. While you can look into your options when you visit farms, there is a more convenient way of checking out selections. This is possible when you check out online sites that offer free classified listings. One of these sites is HorseClicks, which provides photo classifieds of various horse breeds. You can take a pick from Arabian horses, Thoroughbred, Appaloosa, Quarter, Buckskin, Paint, and other breeds. The classified listings of Horses Click provide information such as the name of the horse, age, date of birth, gender, breed, color, height, and price. There is also a comment on the traits of the horse and what it has accomplished.

Through the free photo classifieds of HorseClicks, you will be able to find the perfect horse breed. There are three general classifications of horse varieties. These are heavy, light, and pony. Heavy breeds have well-developed muscles, legs, and shoulders. They are suitable for farm chores, especially with the pulling of heavy carts. Examples of this breed are Percheron, Shire, and Clydesdale. On the other hand, light breed horses are useful for racing, riding, carriage-drawing, and rounding up of cattle. These horses are sleek, swift, and tall. Common examples of this breed include the Arabian, Appaloosa, Quarter, and Thoroughbred. The last breed would be ponies, which are suitable as pets or companions for children. Their size is small and their nature gentle. Common examples are Welsh and Shetland.